Week 2 in Sarajevo

Our last week in Sarajevo was a lot busier than the first but no bomb explosions. We spent a lot of time with Hana's grandma Dika, helping her out, running errands, extending her passport, getting her a visa for the US, helping her make food for Bayram.
One morning, after our ritual coffee at noon, we went with grandma to the butcher shop. As soon as we entered the store, she told the guy working there to get her the manager because she would not buy meat from anyone else. When the lady appeared, she criticized her for the meat she sent to her last time. She said it was awful. (Sweet grandma's words) So this time, the lady had to cut each piece of meat individually then show it to grandma for approval.
That same day in the afternoon, grandma lost her teeth and we spent some time looking for them all over the apartment. Grandma did not even remember that she took them out until she sat down to eat. Hana finally found them in the armchair where she usually sits. Don't ask why she put them there, it's grandma.



We probably did not mention this before, but we arrived in Sarajevo towards the end of the month of Ramadan. Which means that since we got there everyone was talking about Bajram (the last day of Ramadan). It lasts 2-3 days, people go to the cemeteries, visit their family, eat home made food, drink coffee and eat baklava. And in Sarajevo specially people go out, drink and party hard. Any excuse is good to have a good time.
So baka Dika, set on having everything ready for the event, decided to prepare food 3 days before and since she can not do it all by herself anymore (even if she won't admit it), Hana got busy helping her out. Miko, since he is a man, was not allowed to do any housework, but likely or sadly grandma can not walk around as much anymore, so he was able to help out a lot more. Before if he were caught in the kitchen washing dishes, Hana would get yelled at, not Miko, Hana.
He also filmed the making of baklava, listening to grandma swearing because she had to make it, which really was her own will. Sacré grandma Dika!
Miko also learned how to make Bosnian coffee and even got the approval of the great master Dika Besirevic! Youpi!!!


Finally it was Bayram. We got little tired of hearing about it and the anticipation among the people. We started the day on a little sad note by bringing flowers to the graves of Hana's grandpa and uncle. Then, during the afternoon we went for something little more happy (at least for Miko), it was the first day of Pépé (Miko's grandpa) flying around the world. Pépé passed away 3 years ago. He was cremated and all the family members who wanted were given a little ceramic container with some of his ashes. Pépé always wanted to travel, so Miko thought it would be nice to spread his ashes everywhere we go and film it. So, at the end of the afternoon, we went up to Vidikovac (viewpoint in Bosnian) overlooking the city. The light was good, but it was a little windy, and not in the right direction. It ended up being a little like that scene in The Big Lebowsky, when John Goodman through the ashes of Jim Beluchi against the wind. This video is going to start with Hana's funny line: It went towards meeeeeeeeeeeeeee! Ha, ha, ha!

Then we finished Bajram like everyone else: going out. We ended up in a really cool bar called Babylon where everyone we met there that night bought us drinks. First we met a group of english speakers: an American student, a lawyer from Utah, a girl from New Zealand and a guy from Irland. After they left, we met this crazy local, somewhat scary but very nice bold guy, who was about to join french legion, who for some reason he really liked Miko and treated him like his best friend for the rest of the night. While Hana got stuck with a stupid drunk kid who was trying to psychoanalyze her. At the end of the night, the bold guy Enes told us a funny line: When you drink a lot of Sarajevsko beer, the next day when you scratch your butt you will think that you are scratching your head. That was our Bajram!

The next day, a guy named Cerkez (same last name as Hana) was playing in the City Pub in Sarajevo. They are not related but the last name is not very common so Hana and her sister Sarah and brother Harun decided to make it Cerkez cousin reunion.
It was fun, everyone was singing along the old traditional songs and dancing. By the way, they played old traditional folk songs with a modern twist, style of music popular in Bosnia called urban sevdah.

We also went to visit Hana's family resort house about 20km away from Sarajevo. Miko finally saw it. He has heard about it for a long time now. We had a nice time there, drinking coffee outside and playing with a sweet cat who seemed to be trying to tell us something. The house was completely destroyed during the war. Only the walls were left standing. But Hana's mom had it rebuilt after the war.
I wish we could have stayed there longer but we had to go back to Sarajevo, oh well, next time.


We also had a funny moment at the hairdressers. Miko and I went to the same place to get haircuts. It was just funny to be there sitting in chairs not far from each other and me translating from my chair to the guy who was cutting Miko's hair and trimming his beard. I would explain how much to cut and where, and then the guy would come to me to ask Miko if he was happy with the cut. Anyway, we were the center of attention for everyone working there and there were all smiling, nice people. Plus Miko (my Japanese tourist) was taking photos even during his haircut.


One thing I forgot to mention. During our stay a mini Gay and Lesbian Festival was organised. The day of the opening some people who participated, and especially the organizers were attacked and beaten up by young kids. This was a big disappointment for me. I thought that people in Sarajevo were better than in Belgrade and Zagreb, where similar things have happened. The mentality here is still some ways behind. Sad...
But we still had a good time in Sarajevo. This city is changing fast. Lets hope the mentality will too.

Evo nas u Sarajevu!

Here we are in Sarajevo now! We arrived 4 days ago and on our very first night we were welcomed by a big kaboom! At about 1am a bomb exploded just down the street from Hana grandma's apartment. It seemed to be directed at the car of one of the baker's sons (so say the rumors and the cab drivers). A month ago another bomb blew up the windows of the bakery (guess mafia related). No one was hurt and most of the people got up to look from their windows to see what is going on at the bottom of the street. After 10 minutes everyone went back to bed, especially Miko, who was only interested in sleeping at the time. Did not even go out to take a photo. Anyway, welcome to Sarajevo!

The next day we met Hana's dad Sead and went for a nice hike which started at a 450 years old bridge (Kozja Cuprija), then followed the river back to the city (3km). To reward ourselves (every excuse is good), we went to eat pita with spinach and cheese (zeljanica & sirnica) and pita with meat (burek) in old part of the town (Bascarsija). Very good.

The weather was for the first 2 days but then it got cold and rainy. We have not prepared ourselves for this kind of cold, mentally or physically. Not to mention the lack of warm clothes, since we only have one of each. Hope the cold weather won't last too long, the city is so pretty when it is sunny. It is being repaired and rebuild everywhere. You can see how the city used to be beautiful before the war.

One of 2 Miko's favorite cafes closed, it was a cafe and bookstore in the same place (Karabit), full of art students. Luckily the other one is still open and full of green plants as always, it's called Avlija. Seeing how sad he was about the cafe that closed, Hana showed Miko another cool bar/cafe and now it's his new favorite. It's called Zlatna Ribica (Gold Fish).

By the way, this city is full of bars and cafes. They are literally on every street, corner, basement, apartment building, sometimes even ten in a row, one next to the other. It seems to be the only and best business in town. And in the summer they are all full.

Last Sunday we went on a little day trip to Mostar, which is about 150km away from Sarajevo. It is in part of the country called Herzegovina and since it is a lot closer to the coast, the weather is much nicer and warmer. What a nice change to walk around in a t-shirt instead of a t-shirt, a sweater and a jacket.

The bus ride was supposed to be 3 hours, but 15 minutes before the arrival the bus stopped in the middle of the road. The parking brake blocked (according to the drivers) and the bus would not move. It took them 1 1/2 hours to fix the problem and then we could continue our trip.

Mostar is named after the bridge Stari Most (which means Old Bridge) that was destroyed during the war. Four years ago on our way to the Croatian coast, we stopped in Mostar for quick break just to see the newly rebuilt bridge. The opening ceremony was 2 days after and the bridge was still closed. During the war 80% of the city of Mostar was destroyed by heavy bombing and shooting. Four years ago the marks of the war were evident everywhere and very shocking. Going there now, we were amazed how much of it was rebuilt, so much work. The main area around the bridge is almost completely redone and the city is regaining its beauty. The architecture of it is so unique and it blends with the surrounding hills. Not to mention the color of the river running through (Neretva), is it blue, or green, or tirquoise... Everyone should go visit. That's it.

We will stay in Sarajevo for another week or so, the next destination is Zagreb (Croatia=Hrvatska) and if we have time we'll also visit Hana's relatives in a small town in Western Bosnia.